07.31.06
Posted in 1. The Story, 2. Greatest Hits, 5. Rants and Raves at 10:22 pm by Chef Matt
The instructors in culinary school have a job to do. Well, two actually. On the one hand, their job is to prepare you for the world of working in kitchens. So you know how to cook, and do so completely, efficiently and correctly. And not to mention how to do so in a sanitary manner. They do this well. They know what they are doing, and they know how to teach.
But there is another job they have. They need to get you in, get you through, and get you on to bring in the next class. Like any school they are in the business of making money, so they have to keep that revolving door spinning. Before I start to sound overly cynical here, I am not damning them for this, but I will say that they may gloss over some fundamental challenges that exist in the kitchen, lest you be deterred and end your education prematurely.
I recently started getting some posts and comments from people who are in similar situations to myself. The “second career” types that is. I just want to explain a certain aspect of kitchen work that will never be reflected in any class in culinary school. It is a truth that may deter some people from going into, or completing culinary school, and thus would stand in stark contrast to job #2 of the teachers in culinary school. The simple fact is this:
This is you in the kitchen in your first weeks on the job:
I don’t care how good a cook you think you are. I don’t care how good you are in your classes. You are going to be a worthless sack at first in the kitchen.
Your chef is going to get on you for it, and (if you are any good) you are going to get on yourself as well for all the simple mistakes you make seemingly every time you turn around. It is an endless litany of errors, and don’t be fooled: you will not sneak it by your chef. S/he will catch every little mistake, and will let you know about them.
I came from my job where I was a long-term employee who knew everyone in the organization, everything the organization did, and I even raised over $2 million for that organization. That’s right, I was not only happy in my job, I was an expert in the field of online fundraising and I was darn good at it.
And now I can’t make a batch of tomato sauce properly to save my life.
I’m not saying my chef is a jerk - he is actually a great guy who runs a restaurant about as well as I can imagine it being run. He just wants everything that goes out to be perfect.
Read that last line again. Perfect. That is a far cry from what I have been doing in the kitchen so far in my life, and a far cry from what you have been doing as well I would assume. “Good enough” no longer cuts it. Getting B’s in your culinary school classes means you are miles from where you will need to be in a restaurant setting. And I should know.
I have a 4.0 in culinary school, and if I can keep myself from making 10 mistakes in my first hour at work, I think to myself “Damn! Great work Matt!”
You don’t have to work for this dipshit to be told you are doing something wrong in the kitchen. Any chef will be happy to let you know. Only not while being a total poseur for the cameras. |
I know I am early in my cooking career - and for those of you who follow my story line, I am currently following a job lead for a second job right now plating desserts at Restaurant Nora in DC on Friday and Saturday nights, I’ll keep you posted on that - but the simple fact is, if you have a fragile ego, or think you know everything there is to know about cooking as you graduate from cooking school and head into the world’s kitchens - forget it. You are going to get your ass handed to you for lunch before your first shift is halfway over.
Get a job in a kitchen - doesn’t need to be full-time, doesn’t need to pay much - or even anything. Get some experience to see if it’s right for you, because it is hot, tough and a real wake-up call you will never get from your culinary school teachers. They know the truth, and if they told it to you, you just might walk about the door.
Having seen some of my fellow students and now seen the realities of kitchen life, it would be better if some of them had left earlier, because they are never going to make it. So before you spend all your money, just know what you are getting in to.
Matt
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07.29.06
Posted in 1. The Story at 1:45 pm by Chef Matt
Yesterday in the restaurant we got the thing that all restaurant owners secretly fear the most. The surprise health inspection. Sure, it is important for public safety to have such things, and Cafe Tirolo has nothing to hide, but still, it is a scary moment - like a pop quiz that you are not sure you have studied for enough.
Anyway, the health inspector was gracious enough to show up at the end of lunch when things were slowing down, and the first thing I am sure he noticed is that none of us were wearing hats. We don’t at the Cafe, and while this is a violation, it is hardly the end of the world health-wise. The problem was most of the staff went running to get hats real quick.
“Look, I know he’s scary, but the health inspector wants us to install an extra hand-sanitizer sink here, or he’s gonna shut this Death Star down. So get it installed!”
“Yes Lord Vader!” |
Since I am still in culinary school and have recently had to do all the tests for what is allowed and what is not in the kitchen, I was able to quickly spot some of the other minor infractions and get them cleaned up before the health inspector came back. Minor infractions include things like: drinking cups without lids, food next to the dishwashing sink (as in, the dishwasher’s lunch..), and the food that Vic was cutting out in the open now that he was talking to the health inspector. I cleaned up as much as I could and got everything stored.
Things like the distance from the handwashing sink to the back of the kitchen (yeah, they test things like that) I couldn’t fix at that moment, and didn’t try, but I did try to at least make the kitchen look clean for the health inspector. It was the least I could do.
At the end of the day, it is not about if you held everything at the exact temperatures they are supposed to be at 100% of the time, it is if the kitchen is clean and the food is safe. And that is something we passed on. I think the real test is that I would eat there knowing everything that goes on. And I would.
So we passed, though I did hear him mention to Vic that we should have all been wearing hats…
And now I present the list of songs you should not be whistling to yourself when the health inspector is standing near you. See if you can guess which one was in my head:
- Dirty Deeds (Done Dirt Cheap)
- La Cuccaracha
- Fish Heads
Seriously man… not funny. |
And finally, a health inspection is NOT a good time to do the “fake plastic cockroach/dog doo/vomit gag” on your boss. He won’t find it funny at all. And therefore neither will you.
Any other time, that gag is MONEY!
No, not really.
Matt
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07.26.06
Posted in 1. The Story at 10:46 pm by Chef Matt
Today’s adventure in the kitchen brought me to a place where I feel I am making less serious errors, but I am still making errors as I try to do more and more each day. In short, I am trying to do anything I have half an idea about how to do it. That is, anything I can actually do half-assed, I then try to do full-assed, and, well, the results are not always stellar. But I am a firm believer in experiential education. A little lecture from the chef on how to do it right goes a long way after having done it wrong. A lot further that his just showing me, and my attempting to get it right when the time comes.
Still, some mistakes continue to plague me:
- The plating of the lasagna continues to elude me. It is in the center of the plate, and has two “swishes” of tomato sauce on two opposing corners. Personally, I think it looks weird even when it is done right, and I just can’t seem to get it too look “right”.
This is spaetzle. It isn’t pretty. |
- Spaetzle needs more salt than pasta when cooking. Vic seems to know when it tastes right, and I believe him seeing as how he is Austrian. I personally am not a spaetzle person - I prefer pasta by quite a bit - so it is hard for me to tell when I have it right.
- All of the different chicken dishes have different sized portions depending on the dish and if it is lunch or dinner. The system has them piled in a series of places on the reach-in fridge and I just don’t think I have the hang of it yet. (Though I made no mistakes at lunch today on which chicken went where…)
But yes, perspective chefs reading this take note: there are very specific portioning guidelines to how a restaurant is run, and it makes sense quite frankly. Serve someone too much chicken in their chicken parmesan, and you are no longer making money on it. Cease to make money on a popular dish, and your restaurant goes belly up. Expect to be forced to comply with such rigorous guidelines when you go into the kitchen.
So today was supposed to be my first double shift, and I have to admit, I was apprehensive. I was wondering what it would be like to work for 13 straight hours, as will be the norm more often when I am done with culinary school (for now) and am able to fit into a more permanent role there. But there was a mix-up in the scheduling, and I was not needed for the dinner rush, but I stayed anyway (unpaid mind you) until the dinner started a little bit so I could see how it went.
Please note this was not my chef taking advantage of me. He said he could not pay me, so I was free to go home, but I offered to stay on and help some so I could see how the transition went, and how things were different during dinner. We all had a good laugh when I was moving a bunch of things quickly and someone said that they needed something right away. My reply “Hey, don’t yell at the volunteers!” got a good laugh from all.
Yeah, something like this was my lunch |
But all in all, it was neat to see how people in restaurants break between shifts. There is a clean up from lunch, a quick once-over in the kitchen to make sure there are enough supplies for dinner, and then a general cool-down period where everyone enjoys their first chance to sit since 8AM. And time to eat too. Amazing how much food can disappear into you when you have not eaten - yet have been surrounded by food - all day.
For those of you concerned about my well-being, my wife has already stated that I must start eating breakfast.
So let it be written.
So let it be done.
Matt
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07.24.06
Posted in 1. The Story, 3. Recipes at 8:19 pm by Chef Matt
Well I had off from the restaurant today so as to appear to still be a good employee at my old job. Hopefully they will still think of me as such for a little longer, since the money is good there. But I can see this dwindling in time if only because I only have so much time in the day.
Anyway, tomorrow I go back to the restaurant, so I will report on adventures then - but I also have school tomorrow night. This being my pastry arts class, I have to create a dessert, and make it. I also have to create a menu description and color diagram of how it is put together. It has to have ceratain elements like a sauce, a garnish and so forth. Anyway, since there is not too much else to report on, and this is all put together, I figured I would share with you all.
I present my Mixed Berry Pavlova, an idea I got from Epicurious, but that I definately improved upon if I do say so myself…
Mixed Berry Pavlova
Vanilla ice cream nested in a sweet and light meringue is covered with fresh summer berries macerated in balsamic vinegar and sugar. Accompanied by cool whipped cream and a rich balsamic glaze, this dessert is a masterful balance of contrasts.
*Recipes* (makes enough for 6 Pavlovas)
Meringues
3 large egg whites
½ tsp corn starch
1 Tbsp vanilla extract
¾ cup superfine sugar
-Preheat oven to 225°F
-Heat egg whites over double boiler until warm to the touch while continuously stirring.
-Remove from heat to new bowl and whip in cornstarch and vanilla extract until soft peaks form.
-Slowly add superfine sugar while beating, and continue to beat until stiff peaks form.
-Spoon meringues onto large cookie sheet fitted with parchment paper or Sil-pat sheet into 6 mounds, each about 5-6 inches in diameter, and about 1 inch apart.
-Bake for 90 minutes (turning halfway). If time permits, turn oven off and allow meringues to continue to dry in cooling oven.
-Remove from sheets and cool completely.
Mixed Berries
¼ cup Balsamic vinegar
¼ cup granulated sugar
2 – 2½ cups mixed berries (whatever is in season, though recommended are: strawberries, raspberries, blueberries and blackberries)
-Mix vinegar and sugar together in a bowl large enough to fit all the berries, stir to combine.
-Add berries and toss lightly with vinegar
-Cover and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, tossing berries every 20 minutes to allow complete maceration.
-Strain berries and reserve accumulated juices for the sauce.
Balsamic Vinegar Sauce
Reserved vinegar/juice from berry maceration
2 Tbsp Kirsch or Amaretto
1 tsp powdered sugar
½ tsp corn starch
-Pour vinegar/juice into small saucepan.
-In separate bowl make a slurry of Kirsch, powdered sugar and cornstarch.
-Add slurry to vinegar/juice in saucepan and bring to a boil.
-Allow to boil for 2-3 minutes to reduce slightly, remove from heat and cool completely (use an ice bath or refrigerator if you need sauce quickly).
Chantilly Cream
1 cup heavy cream
¼ cup powdered sugar
2 tsp vanilla extract
-Beat all ingredients in a cool bowl until smooth and light and can hold its shape when spooned onto a plate.
*Assembly Instructions*
Items:
Round White Dessert Plate with small design elements (some color, not pure white)
1 meringue
1 scoop vanilla ice cream
1/3 cup mixed berries (be sure to have mix, and not all one type of berry)
Large scoop of Chantilly cream
Mint sprig
Balsamic sauce (preferably in squirt bottle)
Directions:
-Using sharp paring knife, cut out bowl shape in top of the meringue.
-Place meringue shell in center of plate.
-Place ice cream in meringue bowl.
-Cover ice cream with mixed berries, keeping all berries on top of ice cream and meringue – not falling onto plate.
-Place dollop of Chantilly cream next to meringue, garnish with mint sprig
-Apply balsamic sauce around base of meringue – being careful not to stain sides of meringue with sauce. Start and stop sauce at the Chantilly cream on the plate.
-Serve immediately.
I made many of these trying a lot of different configurations, but this is an idea my wife came up with that I think worked best. Let me know what you think if you try it (berries are in season!) and if you have a better arrangement for the items, I would love to see it! (That is not a challenge, I am honestly open to ideas!)
Matt
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07.21.06
Posted in 1. The Story at 5:39 pm by Chef Matt
Day 2 is done. Much more responsibility involved as I was taking some tickets and making them my own today, though mainly I was just helping with the little things here and there that I had learned how to make by watching. Sure, I was not without errors galore, but the end game of it all was that people were eating things that I was preparing today.
I always thought that would be a weird feeling, you know, handing out the first dish that I ever made for public consumption that someone had paid for. The reality of it though: I was too damn busy to even notice I had done it. Lunch started at 11:30 and it didn’t even begin to let up until 2:15. I could see it even on the faces of the experienced crew members - everyone was just beat after this lunch rush, and I was too. I am writing this in a sort-of bent-over state. It is hard for me to be upright when I am this tired.
So here are some things that I think I now know I need to leave behind from the world I once knew. I thought these were part of the way life was, but now that I am in a kitchen, I can see they are no longer part of my world.
- Getting to work after 8AM
- Eating anything before 3PM
- Having active nerve endings in my finger tips
- Sitting
- Saying “Good Enough” when serving food. It has to meet my chef’s standards now.
- Needing to exercise (not complaining about this one, but I am on the move enough at this job to replace going running)
- Not having to avoid 3 foot pillars of flame in my work place. I used to enjoy knowing that random spouts of fire would not appear at my work place when I would, say, reach across a desk. Not so much the case any more.
- My days of note-taking are NOT over. My chef does not have recipes - he shows me how to do things, and I have to write them down. My pocket is full of recipes for things like Goulash soup and tomato sauce.
Chef math. Food + Power Tools = Awesome. |
So of course what you all really want are stories about the job. Did I cut myself? Did I deep-fry my left arm? Am I now a master chef? The answer to all of the above is “no”. I sustained several minor burns in the course of the job today as I learned there are even more hot surfaces in a kitchen than I first assumed. Also, please see the aforementioned note Re: Pillars of Fire. As a little something that rates kind of high on the coolness scale though, I did get to watch Vic use a reciprocating saw to cut up some osso bucco.
But the real point is that I know more than I did yesterday, I was more helpful than I was yesterday, and I made less mistakes. In short, progress is all happening in the right directions. Now I just need to keep it going that way next week.
Matt
PS Thanks again to DCBlogs for picking up my story about my first day on the job! Nice of you all!
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