06.22.09
Posted in The Story, My Cookbook at 6:16 pm by Chef Matt
It’s funny how every day I think about what it is I’m going to work on for my cookbook. Do I make up a new recipe and give it a shot? Do I try a new revision of a previous recipe that dawned on me when I gave it it’s first test run? Or do I just screw it all and eat out instead? (Anything but Italian…)
Mmmm… starch. |
And of course I have to choose between working on antipasto dishes versus pasta dishes versus polenta and so forth. I have to keep all the chapters afloat like an expert plate-spinner if only so I don’t get too tired of one type of Italian food. (No matter what I choose though, my starch intake remains firmly through the roof…)
There is the other decision that has to be made whenever I try a new recipe. Does this recipe have potential, and thus just needs a tweaking or slight revision, or is it so far off the mark that is has to be scrapped? As luck would have it, I’ve only had one recipe so far that I felt needed to be thrown out completely. It involved sugar snap peas, bacon, mint and balsamic vinegar. And we’ll never speak of it again.
But the best part so far is the recipes that are so good, that are hitting on all cylinders, that people are already asking me for copies of the recipes so they can make these dishes themselves. I guess the question is - do I share the recipe with them, or tell them to wait for my cookbook to come out?…
To help illustrate this dilemma in my head that I find myself faced with, I will re-use a previous photo I made for this blog:
Of course I never choose the “Dickhead” route in this situation…
But tonight is time to re-work the cauliflower pasta recipe. I’m gonna give it a shot as a risotto instead. We’ll see where that takes us, and who knows? If it works for me, maybe I’ll finally share it here with y’all!
Chef Matt
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06.10.09
Posted in The Story, My Cookbook at 7:40 pm by Chef Matt
A lot of the recipes I have for this cookbook are ones that I have made over the years, and I’m practically using the cookbook as an excuse to write them down for the first time. However, there are others that actually seem to come to me from the ether. Recipes that just appear in my head for one reason or another which need to be worked on and tested, because I think that they may actually show promise.
One such recipe came to me while I was taking a brief nap one afternoon. I was lying on the couch, and suddenly the flavors of olives and hot peppers on spaghetti started to come to me, and so I awoke with a recipe idea that I needed to write down right away. I actually ran it by some friends of mine as well, asking for some input as to what the “green” element of the pasta should be. I’m playing with the name “Pasta alla Swan” for this recipe as it develops right now, since that’s the nickname of my friend who came up with the winning idea.
Who am I to question where inspiration comes from?… |
A different recipe came to me when I saw a beautiful head of cauliflower at the farmer’s market the other day. Sure, it was obviously out of season, but hey, inspiration happens where it happens. I wanted to make a dish that used brown butter and cauliflower on a pasta dish. I started working with other flavors that go great with cauliflower. Flavors like hot pepper, garlic, Parmesan, almonds, walnuts, parsley and scallions were all tested in my trial runs for the dish. The result was a sauce where blanched cauliflower was browned in butter with almonds, then garlic, a little bit of red cherry peppers and scallions were added and heated through. When the pasta was cooked, it was coated with a tablespoon of butter and some breadcrumbs. Then the cauliflower mixture was stirred in, and the plates were topped with Parmesan and parsley.
The result was good…but not great. The real problem is that the flavor was one that slowly built in complexity and depth as you ate the dish, which is true of so many dishes that feature cauliflower. Everyone who has tried this recipe so far was uninterested at first, but by the end was begging for seconds. I need a better way to make the dish really jump out at people and have more kick from the start. If only there was some way to push that desire for more with every bite people take – not just the last few.
If you’re doing cauliflower, it better have garlic. But that’s just me… |
After kicking a few other flavor ideas around in my head, I decided to turn the whole problem on its head. Instead of a pasta, why not make it a risotto instead? A rich, creamy, garlicky risotto into which I stir the brown butter, cauliflower and peppers at the end, and then top it with scallion greens, Parmesan and parsley. The flavor profile would be very similar, but maybe with this more strongly flavored base, I could perhaps have a recipe that was top-notch from the first bite to the last.
But as it stands, I have no idea. That is the next test I have to try. It’s a rough business making a cookbook from scratch - especially with no publisher helping me to foot the bills at this point. But all the same, it’s not so bad eating the test results as I go!
Now I just need to go out and buy another head of cauliflower…
Chef Matt
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06.05.09
Posted in Other Fun, My Cookbook at 3:32 pm by Chef Matt
Those of you who have been following the story, know that when I was in culinary school, I had to take classes in pastry arts and desserts and so forth. It was fun, but it was hardly my specialty.
My carrot cake from culinary school. It tasted OK, but hardly one that should be sold professionally. |
I tried my best, and the food tasted OK, but I would never think of my making of cookies and cakes as being something I was particularly talented at - nor would it be something I would take up as my full-time profession.
It’s not that I think I’m hopeless. With practice, I can work a pastry bag with enough quality, and I know how to apply a crumb coat. I just think it’s that I know the life of a pastry chef is not for me, so I’m not going down that route myself. Getting up at 3 AM (or earlier!) and baking like crazy all day. It’s rough.
And worst of all, in a baking recipe, you can make a little mistake at step 2 in a 12 step process, and not know about it until the end. And there is nothing you can do about it. When I mess up, I just reduce some wine and stock, brown some shallots and cover that mess up! Easy as can be!
No, my friends who are great bakers and dessert makers have always impressed me and while I don’t want to live the life they lead, I still have nothing but the highest respect for all of them.
As far as I’m concerned though, I think I’m gonna keep ordering cookies and cakes from the professionals. Maybe a “Dessert of the Month” subscription would be a better idea - if only to make people think I’m coming up with new ideas… 
Ooh! I get to use this photo again! Don’t they look awesome?!? |
But even still, I’m going to need to come up with some dessert recipes for my cookbook. I have about three done so far. I’m just going to have to learn how to make cannolis. Simple as that…
Chef Matt
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05.15.09
Posted in The Story, My Cookbook at 4:42 pm by Chef Matt
It has been a while since I have reported on a test-kitchen scenario on this blog. Heck, I think the only time I really remember doing that here was back when I was working on different varieties of butternut squash soup. But in my continued research as part of writing my cookbook, I came across in my various notes and cookbooks a collection of different ways to make gnocchi. I was astonished. I really thought this was one of those recipes where the culinary jury had handed in its verdict long ago: the potatoes are boiled and you then proceed with making gnocchi.
But much to my surprise, I found several sources, all of which I consider to be very trustworthy, that had different methods of cooking the potatoes. Some said to boil, some said to steam and some said to oven-roast them. But what I found most interesting about these differences was the one thing they all had in common - they ALL said, no matter which cooking method they advocated, to cook the potatoes whole, with the skins on, and then peel them afterward. Interesting.
Three cooking methods, three pots and pans, three times the clean-up. |
So this called for a little test-kitchen magic! I knew that I didn’t like gnocchi made from 100% russet potatoes, and I found ones made from Yukon golds are a tad waxy. So I first measured out the potatoes to a 50-50 mixture by weight between these two varieties. (About 1 large russet to 2 medium Yukon golds.) One batch I steamed, one batch I boiled and one batch roasted away in a 350 degree oven.
Mmmm… 3 gnocchi. How can I be so generous?… |
As the potatoes finished, I noted the cooking times that it took for each method, and began to peel them and pass them through a food mill to make them wonderfully smooth (very necessary when making gnocchi). I measured in equal amounts of flour, salt and pepper into each batch and began the wonderful process of hand-rolling out the batches. But first, I made sure - as one must always do - to test cook a few from each batch to make sure I had enough flour mixed in. It is a delicate balance with gnocchi - too little flour, and they will fall apart in the cooking water. Too much flour and they will be heavy, gummy dumplings with no potato flavor at all.
Gee, I hope I made enough… |
Once I was convinced I had the right flour to potato ratio for the batches of gnocchi, I rolled them all out and assigned them numbers so that my tasting committee would not know which cooking method had resulted in which batch. From my tasting of the test gnocchi, I was pretty sure I knew which one I would like the best, but I wanted to see what others had to say as well.
What are you talking about? There’s no way this photo was staged! |
The taste test was simple enough. I cooked up small batches, dressed them all with a simple tomato-cream sauce I had whipped up on the side (one of the best gnocchi accompaniments known to man), and gave them score sheets to make notes on the different batches. I wanted to know what they thought of the flavor, the texture, the mouth-feel and so forth. So keeping the batches straight (I hope) they passed down their verdicts.
While it is of course impossible to have 100% agreement on which was the best, the strongest performer was by far the gnocchi made from the steamed potatoes. I also thought this one was the best, and at the end of the day, doesn’t my opinion matter the most here, seeing as how it will eventually be my name on the cookbook? Though I do have to admit, I was happy to see that my taste panel backed up my opinion by giving strong numbers to the steamed potato batch as well.
Obligatory beauty shot. Those really do look awesome… |
So there we have it. I have a technique for making gnocchi, and it was actually different from the one I thought would be the obvious winner. In fact, had I not done this research, I probably would have just advocated boiled potatoes for my gnocchi - the way I have always done it up until now…
While writing a cookbook is turning out to be a lot of hard work, all the same, it is a ton of fun when I get to do experiments like these. Especially ones that result in having a few tons of leftover gnocchi to enjoy!
Chef Matt
P.S. For those of you hoping to see my final gnocchi recipe here, please I have to save SOMETHING for the cookbook, don’t I?…
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05.13.09
Posted in The Story, Recipes, My Cookbook at 7:36 pm by Chef Matt
Wow, I just have to break in here and say that I am really amazed at all of you who have written in to me offering some sort of help one way or the other with the cookbook. From help with layout, to proofreading, it is really overwhelming in how awesome you all have been! So thank you so much for your support as I go down this road! You guys are the best!
So, I guess I need to supply you all with an update. Right now, I am writing recipes like a madman, comparing techniques for different recipes, and cooking up a storm. It is busy work putting together a cookbook as I am learning, but I have to say, the experimentation so far is quite delicious!
The only downside to writing a cookbook on Italian cooking is that I do find myself getting a little tired of Italian food here and there… When my friends ask me where I would like to go out to eat (on the rare nights I eat out now…), my only response is, “Anywhere but an Italian restaurant.”
Keep your advice coming in people. If you know a publisher (or are a publisher) who may be interested in this project, I would love to hear about it! If you just want to test some recipes, well, I can offer that as well. Here is another recipe from the book that I have recently brought about to a successful conclusion, so I offer it up to you as something to share with you all since you have been so good to me! Enjoy!
Fettuccine with Brussels Sprouts, Pine Nuts and Butter
And it looks pretty too! Click image for larger version. |
Brussels sprouts are one of those vegetables that I thought were terrible as a kid only because I never knew how to cook them properly. It suddenly seems that everybody figured out how to cook them properly, and they are now one of my favorite vegetables to work with. And this is just one of many great dishes I have discovered using them.
½ lb - fettuccine
4 Tbsp - unsalted butter - divided
½ ea - white onion – diced
1 clove - garlic - minced
¾ lb - Brussels sprouts, cleaned, shaved thin
3 Tbsp - pine nuts – toasted
1 Tbsp - fresh lemon juice
3 Tbsp - fresh flat leaf Italian parsley – chopped
½ tsp - freshly grated nutmeg
To Taste - salt and pepper
As needed - grated Parmesan
1. In salted water, begin cooking fettuccine.
2. Melt 3 Tbsp butter in skillet over medium high heat. Sauté onions until lightly colored.
3. Add garlic, cook until fragrant – about 30 seconds.
4. Add shaved Brussels sprouts, cook until lightly browned.
5. When pasta is al dente, strain, and return to pot it cooked in. Add Brussels sprouts and remaining 1 Tbsp butter. Toss to combine.
6. Add pine nuts, lemon juice, parsley and nutmeg. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
7. Serve immediately, and pass grated Parmesan at table.
Serves 2-3
Keep that help coming people! Thanks so much!
Chef Matt
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04.10.09
Posted in The Story, Recipes, My Cookbook at 8:45 am by Chef Matt
Just so you all don’t think I’m sitting around doing nothing in my spare time - which is stunningly close to the truth - I want to throw a small update your all’s way as to what I’m actually doing in the endless hours on the couch. I’m sifting through the countless pages, word files, notes in cookbooks and scraps of paper I have here and there and seeing if I have enough recipes to put together my first cookbook.
For now, it’s a mystery.
And I hope to have a better cover and title… |
“What is the cookbook about?” I hear you all asking. Well, at least I hope you are asking if you have read this far…
“I can’t fully tell you just yet,” I reply since I’m a jerk.
Seriously though, I have an angle on my cookbook that I want to keep quiet for the time being since I think the concept is one that nobody has actually ever attempted before. Hopefully the innovation inherent in my concept will provide me with a niche that could tip the scales in my favor towards actually getting this thing published somewhere. But I do think it is safe enough to let you all know that the main culinary thrust of the book will be - of course - Italian cuisine.
So if I can’t tell you fully what the book is about, why in God’s name am I telling you that I’m even doing this? There are two main reasons:
- If I were to write a cookbook, or any kind of book, and not tell you all about it in the process, then there would be a certain level of betrayal from me to you, my loyal readers. This blog is about my evolving story in the culinary world, and I think this counts, so you all should know about my endeavors - even if they don’t pan out - from the get-go.
- This post is acting as a “feeler” post among you - my aforementioned loyal readers - to see what/who you may know that could help me. The connections/opportunities that have literally fallen in my lap as a result of this blog thanks to you all has never ceased to amaze me. And maybe one of you out there knows/holds the key I need to know in order to get this book out there and published. If so, I would love to start down that path at the same time as I am compiling all these recipes together.
And lastly, since everyone likes a good recipe, allow me to share one of the recipes I recently created for the purpose of the book. It was received with rave reviews from all it was presented to, and I thought it was pretty kick-ass myself! Enjoy!
Mixed Seafood Risotto
1 recipe court bouillon (I will add this in a separate section - in the meantime this recipe works fine)
½ lb 20-24 shrimp – peeled and de-veined
20-25 mussels – in shells
4 cups “weak” chicken or seafood broth (basically 1/2 - 1/3 strength so as not to overpower your risotto)
2 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 leek - white part diced, greener parts sliced in semi-circles – divided (deep green parts discarded)
½ medium white onion – small dice
2 cloves garlic – minced
½ cup white wine
1 cup risotto rice
3 tubes calamari – sliced thin
3 Tbsp vodka
Salt and pepper to taste
4 Tbsp unsalted butter
1 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
- Heat court bouillon to a light boil. Add shrimp and mussels and cook for 3 minutes. Remove seafood and cool in ice bath. Remove mussels from shells. Set cooked seafood aside, discard court bouillon.
- Heat broth in small saucepan, keep warm through cooking.
- In separate saucepan, melt butter and sauté white part of the leeks and the onion until translucent.
- Add garlic, sauté until fragrant, about 30 seconds.
- Add rice, and cook while stirring until coated with butter and shiny, about 1 minute.
- Add white wine, cook until absorbed by rice.
- Add broth, 1-2 ladlefuls at a time, stirring between additions, letting rice absorb broth between each addition, until only 2 ladlefuls remain.
- Add cooked shrimp and mussels as well as calamari rings to risotto, and cook for 2 minutes.
- Add vodka and cook for 30 seconds.
- Add remaining broth, cook until absorbed by rice, taste and correct for seasonings.
- Remove risotto from heat, add butter and reserved sliced light green leeks.
- Stir in fresh lemon juice and serve immediately.
Serves 3-4
If any of you out there have any ideas or contacts for the book, or if you want more details on how to cook risotto (which I cover elsewhere in my book), or even if you just want to say hi, drop me an email!
Chef Matt
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